SUP the Salt River in Arizona

The Salt River wild horses that live in the Tonto National Forest east of Phoenix, Arizona, are believed to be descendants of Iberian horses brought by Spanish missionaries, possibly as far back as the 17th century. Today, they roam free in the Salt River region, and if you spend time on the river, you might get to see them.

Like tens of thousands of other people every year, I floated the river in a tube with my family years ago. It was a leisurely good time, our cares floating away in the warm air of the Superstition Mountains. With the advent of the stand-up paddleboard (SUP) and its explosion within the outdoor recreation space, I literally hopped on board, wanting to get on the water in a new way.

When I learned that people SUP the Lower Salt, I knew I would do it, simply needing to make the time. When an invite to a graduation party for my cousin living in Phoenix came in the mail, the plan was put into place.

Launching onto the Lower Salt

I started at Saguaro Lake Guest Ranch, where beautiful, sentinel-like cliffs provide a stunning backdrop to the Salt River’s peaceful waters flowing below them. Within minutes, I saw an otter, which was great, but I really wanted to see the horses.

It was a most relaxed paddle as I made my way down the river, with tubers not yet out in abundance since I got an early start. Eventually, the peaceful paddling did become a little more animated when I approached the Pinball rapid. Fortunately, I did not fall in, but later, at a tight corner, the rapid Devil’s Elbow did knock me off balance, and into the river I went.

Back on the SUP and soaking wet, which felt good in the warming desert air of the late-spring morning, I began to think that a wild horse sighting was not going to happen. I was nearing my takeout point, and no horses could be seen along the river’s banks.

The Wild Horses Appear

Then I heard some unfamiliar noise on the river left. There were a few trees. Suddenly, seemingly coming out of nowhere—but really emerging from the rocky desert and through the trees—were the wild horses.

I was astounded, slowing down as much as possible in the river’s current. I stayed on river right, giving them a safe distance as they gulped gallons of water.

Standing in the water up to their haunches, they made horse talk with each other while hydrating. I could see my takeout point up ahead, but I did not want the moment to end. I quickly paddled upriver a little bit, keeping myself a couple hundred feet from them as they cooled their bodies.

While watching them, I thought of human time: Indigenous peoples. Spanish missionaries and conquistadors. Westward expansion. The Wild West. Phoenix and sprawl.

Were the mustangs timeless? No, not really. History tells us some of their story. What seemed timeless, though, was the act of drinking water at that moment in time.

What do I mean? How is that possible?

Sometimes, I believe, there are life experiences that happen more like a poem than a recording of facts in a newspaper article.

The Salt River wild horses are poetry in motion.

SUPing the Lower Salt River

Saguaro Lake Guest Ranch has SUP and kayak rentals. The ranch can also set up a shuttle for you if you have your own SUP. It’s best to call ahead to discuss all of your options when planning your paddling outing on the Salt.